Wonderful Cinque Terre

Yesterday' s departure from Siena was smooth as were the train changes at Empoli and Pisa. We passed through a variety of landscapes - Tuscany hilly country with vineyards all turning yellow, past the very high Apuan Alps with snow capped mountains and through the Carrara Region where it seems whole mountains are being removed for the valuable marble. We also went through many large towns, several with large industrial areas - not so attractive. Closer to our destination, Monterosso in the Cinque Terre Region, much of the trip was through tunnels with only very brief glimpses of the coastline until we eventually reached the much anticipated Monterosso Station, disembarked, and it was raining! - we had left Siena in sunshine! It was so wet and cold we took a taxi instead of doing the 15 min walk from the station to the old part of town. The driver called the B&B owner to say he had us on board, dropped us off at the end of a very narrow lane and told us to wait (what else could we do?). After about 5 mins a beaming young man appeared out of another lane, introduced himself, and took us via two lanes and up some stairs, to our accommodation which is a very modern room with beautiful fittings in a home that was built in the 1500's. Parts of the outer wall were built with stones brought up from the sea, hence the name of the home Petre di Mer. The rain did not look like ending so we dressed ourselves appropriately - long johns, normal clothes, extra jacket, waterproof trousers, coats, hats, scarves and gloves, and we were off (not very quickly). We walked along the breakwater, then around a point beneath a small castle to the New Town, along the Esplanade and back and eventually returned to the old town with its colourful buildings, narrow winding lanes, bars and cafes everywhere - most closed because here the tourist season is officially over, a church and two Oratories - one Black and the other White. These are now churches but originally were fraternities formed by people who were part of a movemeny that was against the growth of Protestantism. The Whites looked after the sick, homeless people, abandoned women and the like, whilst the Blacks looked after the dying and conducted funerals. The churchs sculptures actually include skeletons and skulls - seems very weird.


Our laneway

 

 

Today we planned to explore three or four of the other towns which make up  the Cinque Terre and are linked by the railway, but a train Strike put a spanner in the works. So, dressed appropriately, with all of the afore mentioned gear on except for the waterproof pants, it was not raining when we went out for breakfast, we set off to explore further the town of Monterosso, the coastline, and at least do some of trail between this town and the next - Vanezza. We had been advised not to attempt the whole walk because it could be quite hazardous after yesterdays rain. So, we had not gone far when we realised a)  the sun was shining and it was hot! and b) that was a train that just went past! So, we headed for the station and "Yes, there is a Strike, but they keep essential lines running and the 11.20 train 'might' come. They will know 10 mins before it is due". So, we went for a 15 min walk, found a toilet (one Euro to go in) so I could take off the long johns, back to the station with 10 mins to spare, the nice lady was on the phone but gave a 'thumbs up' whilst she printed out the tickets and we caught the train for the 4 mins trip to Vanezza. Another lovely old town, more compact than Monterosso but still with high buildings of various colours, lots of steps and winding laneways. We enjoyed a picnic lunch on a stone bench next to the church alongside the harbour and returned to Monterosso on the 2.45 pm train which thankfully was 'not on strike'.

 

After coffee (de-caff Americano) for M and hot chocolate (with cream) for B on the Esplanade in the New Town we headed for home but went up and up steep stairs to a lookout and church, and then down to home via back lanes and steps, for a rest before dinner. We have loved the sea views, terraced hill sides and quaint towns of the Cinque Terre, off to Florence tomorrow.

Monterosso Old Town

Monterosso New Town

Monterosso bay with Vanezza in far distance