Back in Dublin

30th August

A sunny morning!! Nice drive to Glendalough Monastery site via the Wiklow Pass. A significant place dating back to the 5th century when there were no cities and monasteries were the main centres where communities developed. Quite a lovely place but heaps of people because it is only an hours drive from Dublin and it was sunny! Found it a bit off putting to go for a 3km walk and find 3 food vans at the end. Just as we were leaving it rained.

 

In the afternoon we returned the car to Avis in busy Dublin and took a taxi to the very flash Gibson Hotel near the docks, where we had a nice meal and repacked in readiness for tomorrows ferry trip to Wales. We are quite sad to be leaving Ireland. Highlights for us have been

• the history - ancient, medieval and the Great Famine of the mid 1800's
• the beauty of the West coast
• the rock walls and the neat green, green fields.
• the narrow, winding roads through valleys, over mountains and around costal inlets
• the people we have met in the B & B's and the stories they have shared
• the random acts of kindness that came our way many times. Such as the man who crossed the street in Westport to see if we had the correct change for the public toilet. We have found the Irish people to be warm, bright eyed, happy and very friendly.

Two good travelling days

Monday 28th August

A straightforward drive to Cahir, part of the drive through a lovely scenic valley. A quick look only at the Cahir Castle, we have almost had enough of castles although this one is quite impressive. I particularly liked the portcullis which could be dropped on the invading enemy - only one of three in Ireland and has been used in a number of films.

 

We then did a 2km walk to the Swiss Cottage which is a cottage but not Swiss. It was designed by an architect for the Castle owners so they could get away and act like peasants every now and then. It was something the ruling classes liked doing apparently. Marie Antoinette had one built in the grounds of the Versailles. The style of building was called an Orne Cottage. It had to built in a forest and by a stream so they could hear the sound of running water. This one only had 4 rooms. The castle owners probably told the staff they were going bush for the weekend and the servants would most likely have had to transport all of the food and other necessities to the cottage so the owners would be comfortable - they really knew how to rough it. Of course, on the 2km walk back to the car it rained, fortunately it was very soft rain.

 

Our overnight accommodation was in Cashel, a short walk from the town and near the Rock of Cashel which we will explore tomorrow.

 

 

Tuesday 29th August

 

An early start meant we were the first to arrive at the Rock of Cashel an impressive and significant place. A castle where many Irish Kings had lived - each regional area had there own King whose followers often fought against each other or stole cattle or women. For example the O'Brien tribe/family would have had their own king. Cashel was the home for the King of the Munster region. One Munster King, Brian Boru, was able to drive the Vikings out of Ireland and he became King over all of Ireland. In 1001 the King recognised the significance of the Cashel fortress and handed the whole lot over to the church, A magnificent Cathedral was built and a smaller chapel which is now being restored, and the complex became a place of learning and a spiritual centre for the whole region. We had a good time exploring and learning.

 

 

We also had an interesting time exploring a museum dedicated to the development and understanding of Irish Music and Dance. Set in a wonderful modern, underground building with audio and video, often interactive, displays we were most impressed and learnt a lot and we were the only ones there

- it is not on the tourist map.

 Travel this afternoon brought us the Kilkenny. A large, vibrant historic town with a very large castle, a wonderful medieval centre as well as modern shopping malls, lots of colourful flowers in pots and baskets and an attractive landscaped river. We were able to walk into town from our B&B and we really enjoyed walking around the city and especially enjoyed afternoon tea in the Castle Tea-rooms. We even had some sunshine for about an hour. The day finished with a pub meal listening to some Traditional Irish Music.

Superb Sunday

Sunday 27th August

A late start and on advice from Host Gerry headed first to Ross Castle near Killarney. This tower castle has been fully restored and a guided tour filled in the gaps in our understanding we had had when we climbed the castle ruins near the Shannon a few days ago. Then lunch by Mukross House, a 30min walk through dense forest in the Killarney National Park to a tea rooms where they sold Magnums - all National Parks should have tearooms at the end of walks! On the walk back we got wet (again) but not too badly.

A short drive up the mountain took us to Ladies View Look Out where we could see back into the valley where we had spent the morning. Then the fun began. Gerry had told us to look for a small road going off to the right which looked like a country lane. It would take us down into the Black Valley and eventually up the mountain range on the other side and through the Dunloe Pass. What a trip it was. One car width wide the road wound down the side of the mountain to the valley floor, then alongside a fast flowing river, through a small town and up, via a number of switch-backs, the mountain on the other side of the valley and eventually through the Dunloe Pass between two high mountains. It was an amazing drive. Lots of stopping for photos, many "WOWS" from both driver and passenger, stopping often and pulling over many times to crawl past oncoming cars (and bikes, and even hikers), with much waving. Through the Dunloe Pass the road wound around large boulders and went past three small lakes. A highlight day we will always remember.

We were home in time to have another Pub Meal in Castlemaine and then walk it off around the farm. We will miss the Gerry and Pheenie's company. Each morning there has been lots of story telling and much laughter. Gerry is a real Irish character.

The Dingle Peninsula

Saturday 26th August

A great day touring the Dingle Peninsula. Fine and quite warm in the morning, a misty afternoon and soft rain early evening. Still amazed by the superb quality homes everywhere, the 'WOW' views around every bend and the wildflowers along the roadsides. Some highlights were
 The Connor Pass - a very narrow road over the mountain range and up in the clouds - much stopping, backing and 'squeezing by' needed to get through - unfortunately no views because of fog but still exciting.

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The Gaiss Oratory

 An 1845 'Famine home"Great coastal views







A  5th Century farm with beehive homes

Cliffs of Moher and more

Friday 25th August

An amazing start this morning. We were patiently waiting in a very bright dining room for breakfast with country views on three sides. First came warm freshly baked scones (g/f for Bruce) and brewed coffee. Then stewed home grown fruit with home made yoghurt, followed by the 'worlds best omelette'- containing cheese, tomato, mushroom and ham. To top it off we each had four toasted slices of home baked bread, each slice from a different recipe. That's right, Bruce had four yummy tasting g/f pieces of toast with homemade orange marmalade. One of Merilyn's slices used Guinness in the recipe, she just wanted to stay there and keep eating bread all morning. The young hosts Chris and Ireen, originally from Belgium, really spoiled us. We finally staggered out to the car and headed for the Moher Cliffs (the Cliffs of Insanity from Princess Bride). They are very impressive and we spent several hours walking along the top and dodging people - there were thousands there. We counted 25 buses in the car park at lunchtime. The weather was mild with very little wind and no rain! For lunch we ate our sandwiches sitting on a rock by the sea with only a few people walking past and a visit from a couple of dogs. Lovely! After lunch we crossed the Shannon River on a ferry and drove to the ruin of a tower castle alongside the Shannon. It was open so we climbed a spiral staircase up four levels to a balcony from where there were good views. Merilyn made it up OK but needed a guiding hand on the descent.

     After driving for sometime around the Atlantic coast we decided it was time to go inland and find our accommodation in Castlemaine. We hit Tralee at peak time and finally got through and after another half hour of driving in the rain we finally found the turn off. At the end of a country lane was our farm, home for the next three days. Boy, this is some place -we are really living the high life. After a pub meal we walked around the farm, met Gerry the farmer and some of the cattle, horses, and of course a donkey. We are really looking forward to the next couple of days.

                                     

Four Day Catch Up

Monday 21st August

Travelled from Strandhill to Westport along the Wild Atlantic Way

Started to rain about lunchtime - weather system which was a former Hurricane in the Alantic expected to bring a lot of rain over the next few days.

Highlights

• Our first Tower Castle
• Wonderful coastal scenery
• Downpatrick Head - walk to blowhole and rock formations
• learning more about 'bogs'
• sheep  everywhere including alongside and on roads

The day ended with us driving in very heavy rain for several hours and arriving late and tired at Westport and thankfully a lovely B & B.

 

Tuesday 22nd August

 

A Day in Westport. Heavy rain expected all day so unfortunately did not do planned 42km bike ride.

Spent time at Heritage Centre but did not discover anything about Hannakers living in the area.

Drove around the coast and found a lovely spot for a picnic lunch - a pier, rock beach, saltwater bog and no rain although looked very threatening. We were amazed that people were swimming and sitting under umbrellas on the beach - it was about 16C, and lifeguards were on duty. Wonderful drive around large headland before returning home - no rain all day!.

 

Wednesday 23rd August

 

Continued along the Wild Atlantic Way from Westport to Roundstone.

 

Highlights

• Holy Mountain (Croagh Patrick) - many (100's each day) climb as a pilgrimage. Some with bare feet. We just looked.
• National Famine Memorial - a 'Coffin Ship' sculpture - very moving
• The drive through Doolough Valley where there is a memorial to the poor who travelled through the Valley on a day in1849 seeking food or help from Government officials in Delphi - a 10 mile walk following goat tracks and wading streams. They were told there was no help and they must go back to where they had come from. Many died of cold and hunger.
• Coonamara National Park - 100's there but were able to do a short walk. Got caught in a sun shower which thoroughly wet our trousers - soon dried out because weather was quite warm - at least 18C
• Sky Road from Clifden to Roundstone - magnificent coast scenery
• Pub meal in Roundstone
• Irish musical night in community hall put on by the locals - very talented musicians and dancers. A great night and fitting end to an almost perfect 'Irish' Day
  

Thursday 24th August

 

Not such a good day. Rained all day, very cold and windy. Further north there have been terrible floods. Cars washed away, houses flooded, many roads cut - we have been very fortunate.

 

Did manage to visit some interesting Stone Age sites, although we got pretty wet. Unable to see any of the views in the Burren region which was a bit unfortunate. Painted on the wall of our bedroom which is in a farmhouse in a lovely rural setting in Lisdoonvarna are the words "LIFE isn't about waiting for the storm to pass... its learning to Dance in the Rain"

 

I have managed driving on the very narrow roads OK. Along side every road there are rock walls. Some walls are very high and very close to the road. Speed limit is 100km on most roads but drops back to 80km if there is only room for one car i.e. if one car is able to pull into a narrow side spot so the on coming car can squeeze through. it is fun when the oncoming vehicle is a bus - they don't back up. Journey down the Wild Atlantic Way continues tomorrow.

 



 

 

 

Quiet Sunday

Anne's B&B overnight was lovely. Delightful hostess, lovely room and another great Irish breakfast. Driving under overcast skies we passed  through some lovely villages and past emerald green countryside - delightfully ordered farmland, many farms with colourful gardens. We took an hour long walk through Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery - another significant site containing more than 60 tombs .As we started to climb a mountain (hill) near Sligo the rain came in and it was obvious that there would be no views from the top so we turned around. We might try again in the morning. We did have our first view of the Atlantic which was exciting. So, we booked into our 4 star boutique hotel in Strandhill. Merilyn has had an extended nap and I have watched the semi final of the Gaelic football - sure beats camping in wet weather.Hopefully it will be dry enough for a walk along the beach after tea.

Saturday 19th August

After another freshly cooked Irish Breakfast - eggs, mushrooms,bacon, tomato, potato cubes and two slices of g/f toast, we were off by bus to pick up our hire-car - a Skoda. It goes OK except whenever I indicate for a turn the windscreen wipers come on.

First stop, 100krm northwest of Dublin was Strokesdown Park - a huge mansion, parkland, walled garden, woodlands and the National  Famine Museum. The huge estate was granted to a man, family name Mahon,  because he supported the English King in the 1600s. We had a good tour of the mansion which was bought by a local garage owner years ago when it became too hard to manage for the elderly lady who was the last of the Mahon family descendants. It was in a derelict state and he was going to knock it down but had a good look round inside first and discovered great treasures  - furniture, paintings, children's toys, and 4,000 items (many letters and parliamentary papers) relating to the 1840's famine - hence the Famine Museum being established there by the Heritage Trust.

 

After lunch we travelled to Tulsk where we explored the Rathcroghan Visitor Centre - it details the significance of another ancient Royal Site - much like the Hill of Tara. As I write this I am sitting on the bed in our room which overlooks the main street of Tulsk, there is an Irish music concert on the TV and we have had a massive meal in the local pub. Life is good!  

Diagonally opposite our hotel there is a Remembrance Garden for those who lost their lives in the fight to achieve independence for Ireland from Britain. There have been several attempts to establish a Republic, a bitter Civil War, and ongoing fighting for many years involving the IRA. Many lives have been lost in the various conflicts
. The leaders of the 1916 Easter Uprising, which only lasted a week, were imprisoned in a building on this spot before they were transferred to Killmainham Prison. The sculpture at the end of the reflective pool is quite moving - there are swans of hope rising out of despair.

A 30 min bus trip and a short walk took us to Killmainham Prison where we had a 1hr tour and then time in the museum. It is a very sobering place. We were shocked by the old wing where the leaders of the Easter uprising were kept (and perhaps Merilyn's g,g,g,grand father, although we have yet to confirm this). The newer East wing is much more open and bright but conditions were still harsh - only 1 hour exercise per day when you must continually walk around a yard - no matter what the weather, and no communication with others. Those on 'hard labour' were driven to exhaustion. One task was to pass cannonballs from man to man whilst chained to each other by the feet. Once all the balls were in a pile on the side of the yard they were then passed back to form a pile on the other side. It was in this yard where executions occurred, including those of the leaders of the Easter Rising. I found it very moving to stand next to the place where they had knelt in front of the 12 man firing squad. Several of them were school teachers, one was married the day before his execution and another was dying from wounds he had received in the fighting and had to be carried in on a chair.

 

The afternoon was spent at the very new EPIC exhibition centre.. A series of galleries with high tech interactive displays dedicated to the Irish who have migrated, and their descendants - why they left and what they have achieved. Ned Kelly, Paul Keating and Jim Stynes all featured. It was fun and interesting. The day ended with the almost compulsory visit to sweet Molly Malone. Some of the Irish call her the 'Dish with the fish'